How Coperni Turned Technology Into Performance Art

In just a few seasons, French fashion brand Coperni has become one of the most talked-about names in luxury fashion. While many brands focus on creating beautiful garments, Coperni has positioned itself at the intersection of fashion, technology, and performance art.

From the viral spray-on dress worn by Bella Hadid in 2022 to robot dogs walking the runway during Paris Fashion Week in 2023, Coperni has continuously challenged what a fashion show can be.

But are these technological spectacles truly pushing fashion forward, or are they distracting audiences from the clothes themselves?

Who Is Coperni?

Coperni was founded in 2013 by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant.

The brand takes its name from Nicolaus Copernicus, reflecting its fascination with innovation and scientific progress.

Their design philosophy combines minimalist French tailoring with influences from technology companies such as Apple and Tesla. The result is a modern, wearable aesthetic that appeals to younger consumers looking for both style and innovation.

The Spray-On Dress That Changed Everything

In September 2022, Coperni created one of the most viral moments in fashion history.

During the Spring/Summer 2023 show, supermodel Bella Hadid stepped onto the runway wearing only nude undergarments.

Scientists from Fabrican then sprayed a liquid substance directly onto her body. Within seconds, the material transformed into a wearable fabric dress that was then cut and shaped on the runway.

The performance demonstrated more than creativity. It showcased the potential future of textile manufacturing.

According to Fabrican, the technology can potentially:

Reduce textile waste
Use recycled and natural fibers
Create customized garments for different body types
Integrate wearable technology and health-monitoring devices

The moment instantly went viral across social media and transformed Coperni into a globally recognized brand.

Coperni FW23: Enter the Robot Dogs

After the success of the spray-on dress, many wondered how Coperni could possibly top itself.

Their answer came during Fall/Winter 2023 at Paris Fashion Week.

The show featured Spot robots created by Boston Dynamics. These dog-shaped robots interacted directly with the models throughout the runway presentation.

One robot:

Took a handbag from Lila Moss and later returned it.
Participated in a choreographed interaction with Rianne Van Rompaey.
Removed a jacket from a model to reveal a dress underneath.

The performance transformed the runway into something closer to a theatrical production than a traditional fashion show.

The Inspiration Behind the Show

The collection was inspired by the French fable:

The Wolf and the Lamb

Traditionally, the story explores themes of power imbalance and domination.

Coperni reinterpreted the narrative by replacing the wolf with robots and presenting a future where humans and technology coexist rather than compete.

According to the designers, the show aimed to imagine a world where technology acts as a partner rather than a threat.

This vision aligned perfectly with Boston Dynamics' public commitment to developing robots that assist humans rather than harm them.

Fashion Meets Technology

Technology has influenced fashion for decades, but Coperni has pushed the relationship into new territory.

Their collections frequently incorporate technological references, including:

AI-generated imagery
Experimental materials
Futuristic accessories
Scientific collaborations
Digital culture references

One FW23 highlight was a Swipe Bag made from meteorite material that reportedly originated from a meteor strike in southern France approximately 55,000 years ago.

Another piece featured artwork generated using artificial intelligence.

Rather than treating technology as inspiration alone, Coperni makes it part of the storytelling process.

The Business Impact

The spray-on dress became far more than a viral moment.

Following the show:

Coperni gained hundreds of thousands of social media followers.
Brand awareness increased dramatically worldwide.
Product demand surged.
Signature products such as the Swipe Bag sold rapidly.
The company experienced significant sales growth.

The event demonstrated how modern fashion brands can use cultural moments and digital storytelling to reach audiences far beyond traditional fashion consumers.

The Criticism: When Performance Overshadows Fashion

While many praised Coperni's creativity, the brand also faced criticism.

1. Are People Looking at the Clothes?

One of the most common complaints is that audiences remember the spectacle more than the collection itself.

Many people can recall Bella Hadid's spray-on dress or the robot dogs but struggle to describe the garments shown during those collections.

For some critics, fashion should remain the central focus of a runway show.

2. The Risk of Chasing Virality

The success of Coperni's viral moments has inspired other brands to pursue attention-grabbing runway stunts.

This raises concerns that fashion shows may become social-media performances rather than presentations of design excellence.

If every brand attempts to create viral moments, audiences may eventually become less impressed by the spectacle.

3. Technology Anxiety

Not everyone shares Coperni's optimistic vision of technology.

Some viewers find robots unsettling and worry about increasing automation in society.

The show opened conversations about:

Artificial intelligence
Automation
Human labor
Technology dependence

These concerns demonstrate that innovation often generates both excitement and skepticism.

Why Coperni Matters

Whether people loved or hated the performances, Coperni succeeded in achieving something rare:

It made people talk about fashion.

At a time when countless runway shows disappear from public memory within days, Coperni created moments that crossed into mainstream culture.

The brand has demonstrated that fashion shows can be:

Artistic performances
Technological demonstrations
Cultural conversations
Marketing tools
Entertainment experiences

Most importantly, Coperni has shown that innovation remains one of fashion's most powerful tools.

My Thought

What I find most interesting about Coperni is that the brand isn't simply using technology as decoration. Instead, technology becomes part of the story they are trying to tell.

The spray-on dress wasn't just a viral moment—it opened a discussion about the future of textile production. The robot dogs weren't simply a gimmick—they represented a vision of cooperation between humans and machines.

That being said, I understand the criticism. Fashion should always remain the star of a fashion show. If audiences only remember the performance and forget the collection, then the balance may be lost.

Personally, I think Coperni works best when technology enhances the clothes rather than replaces them. The brand's greatest achievement is showing that innovation and creativity can coexist while still making fashion exciting for a new generation.

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